Evolution Loop (North Lake to South Lake)

Named lakes at 11,000ft, endless granite, widely considered the most beautiful stretch of the entire John Muir Trail.

Sierra NevadaJohn Muir WildernessStrenuous5 daysPoint-to-point
Miles
55
Elev gain
10,000 ft
Peak
11,972'
Best months
Mid Jul - mid Oct (snow on Muir Pass until Jul)

Description

The definitive section of the John Muir Trail. Evolution Basin is a vast granite wonderland of named lakes at 11,000ft (Wanda, Sapphire, Evolution), widely considered the most beautiful stretch of the entire JMT. Muir Pass with its iconic stone shelter, Le Conte Canyon, and Dusy Basin round out a route that packs the best of the High Sierra into 5 days. This is the route for experienced backpackers who want a taste of the JMT without the 3-week commitment.

Trailheads

Start: North Lake TH (9,400ft)
End: South Lake TH (9,800ft)

Logistics

  • Permit required: Yes (Inyo NF permit (recreation.gov) - Piute Pass trailhead for North Lake start. VERY competitive. 60% released 6 months ahead, 40% released 2 weeks ahead.)
  • Bear canister: Required
  • Shuttle required: Yes

Key features

  • JMT section
  • Muir Pass
  • Evolution Basin
  • Evolution Valley
  • Muir Hut
  • Dusy Basin
  • Bishop Pass
  • alpine lakes
  • iconic Sierra scenery

Day by day

Day 1
North Lake TH (9,400ft)Upper Golden Trout Lake/Piute Creek (10,800ft)
7 mi+2,000/-600 ft gain

Water: Piute Creek, Piute Lake, Summit Lake

Climb to Piute Pass (11,423ft) past Loch Leven and Piute Lakes. Descend past Summit Lake. Camp at Upper Golden Trout Lake or Piute Creek.

Day 2
Upper Golden Trout Lake/Piute Creek (10,800ft)South Fork of San Joaquin River (8,250ft)
11 mi+200/-2,800 ft gain

Water: Piute Creek, South Fork San Joaquin River

Descend into Piute Canyon following Piute Creek. Join JMT/PCT and hike along the South Fork of the San Joaquin River. Make camp along river.

Day 3
South Fork of San Joaquin River (8,250ft)Evolution Lake (10,950ft)
11 mi+2,700 ft gain

Water: South Fork of San Joaquin River, Evolution Creek, Evolution Lake

Hike through Evolution Valley - stunning meadows (Colby, McClure, Evolution Meadow). Ford Evolution Creek (can be tricky in early season). Climb steadily into Evolution Basin. Camp at Evolution Lake - widely considered the most beautiful lake on the entire JMT.

Day 4
Evolution Lake (10,950ft)Little Pete Meadow (8,850ft)
12 mi+1,000/-3,100 ft gain

Water: Evolution Lake, Wanda Lake, Helen Lake, Middle Fork Kings River

Walk through heart of Evolution Basin past Sapphire Lake and Wanda Lake. Climb to Muir Pass (11,955ft) and iconic Muir Hut (stone shelter). Stark, above-treeline landscape. Cold and exposed - bring warm gear. Descend to Helen Lake. Hike along Middle Fork of Kings River as you descend into Le Conte Canyon. Camp at the bottom of the canyon, near Little Pete Meadow.

Day 5
Little Pete Meadow (8,850ft)South Lake TH (9,800ft)
13 mi+3,200/-2,200 ft gain

Water: Bishop Lake, Saddlerock Lake, Timberline Tarns, Long Lake, South Lake

Turn east and begin steep climb up switchbacks to Dusy Basin. Climb to Bishop Pass (11,972ft) for final panoramic views. Descend east past Bishop Lake, Saddlerock Lake, Timberline Tarns, Long Lake, and South Lake to South Lake TH. Arrange shuttle or second car at South Lake beforehand.

Side trips

Darwin Canyon via Lamarck Col (class 2-3 cross-country, experienced only); day hike to Goddard Canyon from Evolution Valley; Knapsack Pass from Dusy Basin for views into Palisade Basin

Notes

SHUTTLE REQUIRED: North Lake and South Lake are ~30min apart by car near Bishop. Leave car at South Lake, shuttle to North Lake. Trailheads on same road system. Evolution Creek ford can be thigh-deep in early July. Muir Pass snow lingers into July most years - check conditions. Bear canister required. No campfires above 10,000ft in Kings Canyon NP. Mountain Rambler Brewery in Bishop for post-hike celebration. Multiple route variations possible (reverse direction, Lamarck Col entry/exit).

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